And man, is it fast! My recent (one-of-my-procrastination-activities) internet speed test showed the following results:

Download speed test result

Upload speed test result

I honestly have no idea how to check its reliability so let’s just base it from experience then. On the average, it takes me …

… < 40 sec to download an mp3 file (4 – 7 mb)

… 5 – 10 minutes to complete a 350 mb – file

… 15 minutes to complete a 700 mb-file

…< 30 seconds to wait for streaming to start when watching online

Of course these values depend on the source and time of day. Upload is a bit slower (especially in Facebook), but still very reliable. Sometimes, I feel that the laptop that I’m using couldn’t keep up with the internet speed. Haha. I was never an internet addict in the Philippines. I could spend weeks without checking my mail and going online, and I never really saw how one could get addicted to social networks. But when I got here, well… Let’s just say that sometimes I had to remind myself that there is life outside my apartment. Hahaha.

But aside from the speed, everything is just so accessible through the internet here in Japan. Almost all establishments have detailed maps and/or instructions on how to get to their location in their websites, making them very easy to find. At the same time, most of the restaurants offer discounts when you print coupons from their websites. Google map, as in other developed countries, have updated street and aerial views of the different nooks all over Japan, even the provinces. Of course, most of the names are in Kanji (a fact which makes me wonder why I even bothered studying Hiragana/Katakana if I couldn’t rely on them when I need to find my location), but with a little bit more internet magic, it’s still very useful. Internet forums like Japan Guide also offer very helpful information about the sights to see in each prefecture, and how to get there.

But for me, the most frequently used sites are:

(1) www.hyperdia.com

Hyperdia gives you very detailed means on how to get from one train station to another, complete with the option to select the time of departure/arrival, the cost for each transfer, the expected time of departure from one station and the expected time of arrival to the destination. While its “rival”, Jorudan , offers you several options depending on the total travel time and/or cost, hyperdia provides you options not only on the type of trains that you wish to take (local, express, JR, subway, limited sleeper express, shinkansen, etc), but also on the mode of transportation that you can take (airplane, airport shuttle bus, walk).

(2) Japan Meteorological Agency (JMA) and weather bug

I cannot leave the house/office without checking these first. JMA has three-hourly forecasts that are most useful when the season is about to change (which usually means that it’s time to bring my 7-11 translucent umbrella). You see, unlike in European countries where (I’ve heard) the weather is mostly just gloomy and steadily cold, in Japan the weather is quite extreme and, recently, unpredictable. Temperature in winter ranges from -3 C to 7 C, while the summer heat is usually due to a temperature range of 34 C to 37 C and humidity of 90% ++. Just the other day, we experienced 33 C at noon and then a sudden drop to 22 C in the evening! At least with these sites, I can easily plan which clothes to wear for the day or if I need “reinforcements” for the night. But with these extreme shifts, of course, these sites also fail sometimes. Today is the perfect example. It had been raining so hard and was so cold this morning that I decided to wear 2 layers of clothing, one of which is a turtleneck blouse. And now, looking through the office window and seeing the glaring sun outside, I curse my turtleneck (and yeah, JMA, haha).

So, yeah, internet is definitely one of the top things that I will miss. But while I’m still here, maybe I can finish the whole 5 seasons of How I Met Your Mother…

Five months ago, all I wanted to do was to call home as much as I could, talk to friends (and even mere acquaintances) in Facebook, twitter, gtalk, YM! (lahat na!), and daydream of the things that I plan to do when I go back to the Philippines. I went to Tsukuba to meet with Filipino friends as much as I could just to be able to experience the good ol’ Pinoy tsismisan. The mere mention of sisig, crispy tenga (in Sefali, KNL, UP Diliman), sinigang na baboy and UP Diliman’s Beachouse barbecue could literally bring me tears.   I was THAT lonely and homesick. But now that I’m leaving soon, all I can think about is the multitude of things that I have yet to experience, and the things that I want to relive and never forget about Japan, especially Tokyo. I will definitely miss it, and if given a chance to visit it again, I will definitely do so in a heartbeat.

So as a parting tribute to the wonderful (almost-a-) year that was, I will be posting the top five things that I will miss most about Japan. One article per week – just in time for my arrival in the Philippines. Some things from the list may be huge and important, while others may seem mundane and insignificant. But every bit of it endeared Japan to me.

(I know that I am very behind with my blog posting and I still have a LOT of trips to chronicle. I will still find time to do this, don’t worry. )

Golden Week Day 1: OSAKA
Nearest station: Umeda
Admission to deck: Y 700

Website: http://www.kuchu-teien.com/english/

The last stop for my Osaka day trip was the Umeda Sky Tower. I am not really fond of skylines nor of really high places, so I was not really excited to visit this famous landmark. But since my friends have been raving about how scary and thrilling the visit was, I had to try it.

See, the Umeda Sky Building is one of the tallest buildings in Osaka, which consists of two 40-storey towers, connected at the top by bridges whose sides allow you to see what’s beneath you. For people with wild imagination and/or fear of heights, the slow escalator ride from one tower to the other can be a really thrilling torture. Haha.

The Umeda Sky Tower at night. You have to cross these...

... with these. (View from the top of one of the towers)

The main attraction is the view from the Floating Garden Observatory. The deck has a commanding 360-degree view of Osaka, with the bustling city on one side and the expansive Yodo River on the other. The sunset, they say, is quite spectacular and romantic when viewed from the observatory. Unfortunately, we were too late to see it. (By this time, I had met with another friend of mine, Alvin, and his parents.) In contrast to what its name suggests, the observatory is actually quite bare, except for a small portion called Lumi Deck, where lovers can sit, and tie their vows and commitment heart chains, which you can buy at the entrance, at the Fence of Vows. (I honestly think that the building is mainly catered for lovers) When the sun has set, the floor of the observatory lightens up with different colors, I guess, to make the experience more romantic and special. But personally, I think Y 700 is still way too steep for these little “romantic” features. (I’m a cheap-o, I know…)

Lumi Deck and the Fence of Vows

Could-have-been perfect sunset

The Yodo River

Osaka at dusk

I would have wanted to visit other places in Osaka, but I was constrained by time and money. Haha. I guess that just gives me another reason to go back.

Situated at the heart of the city, Osakajo is perhaps the main landmark of Osaka. It is said to have been integral to the unification of Japan in the 16^th century during the Azuchi-Momoyama period.

facade of the main tower

Aside from the moat that surrounds the grounds, Osakajo is built on two raised platforms supported by huge stone walls. To provide additional defense, the main castle tower is placed on top of a tall rock wall foundation, making it look grand and majestic from afar.

The castle grounds boasts of a number of gardens where children and adults can relax. I hear that these gardens are gorgeous in spring, with a lot of cherry trees lining the paths. A tour of the gardens could have been enjoyable if not for the extreme heat during that day. For those who want to enjoy the grounds more leisurely, you can opt to take the Castle Park tram (“Road Train”), which runs from the Otemon gate to the Sakuramon gate on the other side of the castle. The ride costs Y 200.

miniatures depicting the Battle of Osaka between the Toyotomi clan and the Tokugawa shogunate in 1615 AD

The main castle tower is 5-stories high. As with other castles in Japan, the lower floors house historical documents, miniatures and videos depicting the famous Siege of Osaka in 1615AD, and ancient works of art. The top floor serves as an observation deck, which boasts of a breathtaking view of the city.

View from the 5th floor observation deck, with a shachi (mythical fish roof decor) on the foreground

Another view from the top floor.

** I was not able to take lots of of pictures of the grounds and the museum inside the main tower because my battery was already running low and we still had one more destination to go. But this site offers more photos of the castle grounds plus more tidbits of the history and description of Osakajo. It’s a good read.

Leaving Osakajo

It has been exactly a year since I visited this beautiful place in Palawan (see previous post), and until now, I still consider it as my most favorite place in the world. <3

For those who are planning to visit it sometime, here are the contact details of some cheap accommodations and recommended boatmen that I was able to research when I was planning for this trip:

ACCOMMODATIONS

Rudy’s place
0908 5521473, 09203633603
http://rudysplacelodge.jimdo.com/

(This lodge was highly recommended by friends and other backpackers for its low cost and clean rooms. It is not located by the sea/port, though.)

Coron Reef Pension House
0919 8877151, 0906 2774037, 0918 3361661

(We stayed in this Pension House. Very, very cheap and is located right by the sea. I would give it a 3 out 5, though. But hey, since you will be out most of the time, I think this Pension House is already a good deal.)

Darayonan Lodge
0917 8811151, 0920 9066184

Village Lodge Coron
0917 9201517, 0910 5717865, 0920 4118861

Banana island (caretaker)
0919 6667258

Waling-waling island (caretaker: Kuya Gerry)
09128956393
(Highly,highly,highly recommended! The place is f-a-n-t-a-s-t-i-c!)

BOATMEN

Kuya Marlon Saclet
09059570551

Kuya Edmond Decena
09109547450
edmonddecena@yahoo.com

**Most of the pension houses and inns offer shuttles to and from the airport already. You can just inquire when you contact them. Personally, I think it’s a great idea to contact Kuya Marlon directly. He can suggest some good accommodation packages and itineraries already, and offer you good discounts.

** For those who are not very keen on planning the trip on your own or if you want to meet other travellers, you can also join DIY Coron. They have scheduled tour packages, which include detailed itineraries, accommodations and (I believe) food. This is also highly recommended by backpackers.

Enjoy every sight, sound, smell and taste of Coron…I assure you that you will never forget the experience. Happy travelling!

Official website: http://www.kaiyukan.com/language/eng/

Osaka Aquarium

Being a snorkeling addict and a self-proclaimed environmentalist, this was perhaps the highlight of my Kansai trip. Even before I got out of the train, I felt so giddy with excitement that I think I was grinning ear-to-ear for the whole ride. (I realized this because some people were smiling at me as I pass by them, haha.)

anxiously waiting at the entrance

The Osaka Aquarium is one of the largest aquariums in the world. Its main tank, which houses different species of sharks, whale sharks and other ocean creatures, can hold 11,000 tons of water, and spans 8 floors.

The tour starts with an introduction to some species that can be seen in forests in Japan. The area reminded me of the freshwater-area (Agos) in Manila Ocean Park, with the open-air setting surrounded by lush plants endemic to tropical forests. After this portion, the real adventure begins. From different species of cichlids in South America to king penguins in Antarctica, the tour literally takes you around the world with a showcase of different marine and terrestrial animals. The variety of species was just outstanding.

The highlight for me, though, is the Great Barrier Reef – tank. The colors of the corals and fishes were just breathtaking! Upon seeing them, though, I didn’t feel like smiling anymore. I was literally on the verge of tearing up because it reminded me too much of home. I kept thinking that if I was in the Philippines, I would be swimming with these beautiful creatures and would be able to feed them in my palm. Funny that in my whole Japan-experience so far I felt homesick the most while seeing fishes…

At the heart of the Kaiyukan is the main tank with (as far as I could remember) 2 ‘medium’-sized whale sharks (butanding), dolphins, varied species of sting rays and sharks, and other fishes endemic to the Pacific Ocean. Seeing them glide through the water was just so relaxing for me that I looked for an available space to sit on and just stared at them for a few minutes.

The tour ends with a roomful of different species of jellyfish. Unfortunately, I got too engrossed with the other tanks that the battery of my camera was almost drained already by the time I reached this part. I wasn’t able to capture these graceful floaters.

Here are some photos from Kaiyukan:

ANTARCTICA

I just love them!

MAIN AQUARIUM

JELLYFISH

Nearest station: Shitennoji-mae-Yuhigaoka station

admission: Y 300 (main Garan only), Y 700 (combo ticket)

Built in 593 AD, Shitenno-ji is the oldest Imperial temple in Japan.  Shitenno refers to the four Buddhist Heavenly Kings.  The temple is said to be built as Prince Shotoku’s thanksgiving for helping him defeat the Mononobe clan. The temple grounds have actually been reconstructed several times. In spite of this, the different structures in the temple complex still reflect the original Buddhist architectural style of its time.

entrance to the temple grounds

little Buddha statues at the entrance

I arrived so early (I had to wait for a couple of minutes before they could let me in), that the vendors selling different goods (from food to used books) were still busy setting up their stalls at the entrance. I also found it difficult to have my picture taken because there was no one else there. But I don’t think I would have wanted it any other way. Exploring the temple grounds in solitude really refreshed my mind.

at the main Garan

Gold (-covered?) lanterns line the corridors

Gojunoto

The complex consists of the Gojunoto (5-story pagoda), Kondo (Golden Hall), a turtle pond, Roku-ji do(Worship hall), and the garden of Gokuraku-jodo (which represents the Buddhist paradise). There is also a treasure hall that houses ancient works of art, but I wasn’t able to visit it anymore.

Rokuji-do (worship hall)

A closer look at the worship hall. The old wooden structure is still reminiscent of the original architecture.

One of the stands in the Turtle Pond. Turtles, which symbolizes longevity, are usually found in shrines and temples.

Kondo Hall (which was supposed to be golden, haha. I guess age does that to you.)

Since I was a gaijin-on-a-budget, I opted to take the overnight bus to and from Kansai. There are a variety of private and JR buses that offer good deals, but I usually take Willer Express because of their English reservation service and accessibility. Their boarding station in Tokyo is conveniently situated near JR Shinjuku station, and payment can be done in convenience stores. In other cities, they would set up make-shift check-in counters in places that are also really easy to find. (Their website also provides very detailed maps directing you to the location of their boarding stations.)

Willer's check-in counter in Kyoto station taken during another trip to Kansai.

The bus fare varies with the type of bus and departure time, but it ranges between Y 4,000 and Y 6,500. I was able to reserve a seat on the 11PM double-decker bus with a restroom on-board, for Y 6,000. (A trip to Osaka via shinkansen costs ~Y 14,000. Of course it only takes 3 hours, which is less than half the travel time for the bus trip, but hey, I don’t really mind long, cheap travels. )

Since my friend (and my host for this trip), Ate Malou, was not available on the first day of my visit, I had to carefully plan the day on my own (trains to take, places to go, schedule). I decided to explore Osaka first. I bought the Osaka Kaiyu Pass at the information office at the station, which gave me unlimited pass to all railway lines and city buses in Osaka, plus entrance to the Osaka Aquarium (Kaiyukan). The pass costs Y 2,400. This is the BEST deal out of all the other unlimited passes since entrance to the Aquarium already costs Y 2,000! The pass also comes with a cute postcard featuring animals that can be seen in Kaiyukan. I got the card with photos of penguins, so that was a big, big plus for me. Yey!

Kaiyukan and kansai 3-day passes. These kinds of deal really are great bargains when travelling anywhere in Japan.

For the rest of the trip, we decided to avail of the 3-day Kansai pass which allowed us unlimited access to all JR trains and some buses in Kansai for 3 days. The pass costs Y 5,000, which is also a great deal especially if you plan to go to a lot of places in three days. The pass also entitles you to discounts in some establishments in the region.

We went to sooo many places during this trip, it literally felt like we were joining Amazing Race Japan or something. So as not to muck up the details, and so that I can also give justice profiling each of the beautiful places that we visited, let me post them one by one. So keep posted!

I MISS THE BEACH.

The clear blue waters that glisten with the sunlight. Smooth powdery sand that can literally hurt your eyes with its perfect whiteness. Colorful fishes unabashedly pecking at your feet, letting you know how unwelcome you are in their turf (haha). Seeing a gorgeous sunset while riding a boat from some small island that you and your friends have called your own for a day.  Barbecue and ice-cold Coke. Damn.

(I don’t miss the sun, though, because I’m also getting so much of it here in Japan. I’m getting my tan, alright. And I hate that I’m getting it by walking to and from the office, and NOT on the beach.)

So, to stoke my frustration and homesickness further, let me just post some pictures that I took from my trip to Zambales in 2009.

(I’m sorry but I really have no useful info about this trip. My dear friend, Marj, asked me to join her and her boss’ friends a week before the trip. I said yes only a day or two prior to it. Everything was planned by her boss already; we just had to show up at the meet-up place and pay our contribution. I believe, though, that we paid less than Php 3,000 each for the gas, food, lodging, booze and boat rides. )

Pundaquit

This town serves as the drop-off point for boats going to- and coming from the more famous island, Anawangin. There are a lot of inns and small resorts by the beach, where less adventurous-visitors (who are not ready to camp in Anawangin) can stay for the night. I am not very familiar with any other sights to see here, but the sunset is truly worth waiting for.

a view of Pundaquit from the boat, as we were coming back from Anawangin

boatmen calling it a day

We called this hut 'the nook'. It's actually a private hut, but we invaded it for the day (no one was there!), where we waited for the sunset.

How can you not fall in love with this place if you have this in front of you?

...and it just kept getting better

Anawangin Cove

What is nice about this place is its irony. Pine-like trees, which one would usually see in colder areas, are planted right on the (almost) white-sand beach. Walking just a few steps into the woods opens up to a freshwater stream with picturesque reflections of the mountains and trees around it and the skies above. A perfect combination of blues and greens. It also amazed me how peaceful the place was, considering that there were so many campers when we went there. Perhaps, everybody just wanted to keep the place as they found it – unspoilt and serene.

Anawangin beach

The island is undeveloped. You have to camp out if you want to spend the night.

It was a little but dry, but still, it was a sight to behold...

It just felt so out-of-place, considering that you have a beach just a few steps from this place.

:)

tip: There are two camp sites in the island, with one so much more expensive than the other. They are pretty much the same! Don’t get fooled by it.

Capones island

This island is more famous for the Faro de Punta Capones (Capones light house). Built in 1886, the light house is still operational even now. They made it more modern, though, with solar panels powering it. The Capones beach itself is not very calm. I personally think it’s not good for swimming; but the view is still perfect.

There are two ways to get to the Light house. The long way takes about 40 minutes from the beach. The distance is not far, but the way is full of rocks, so it is pretty difficult to traverse. The short way consists of just climbing a steep stairs. The danger lies in the waters. The water is a bit violent, making it difficult for the boat to dock in the area.

Docking in Capones

rocky shores at Capones

Spearfishing: All in a day's work

Capones lighthouse

It looks a lot like Cape Bojeador in Ilocos, doesn't it?

My friends taking advantage of the drama that the place exudes

Nearest station:  Shinjuku-gyoenmae; Sendagaya

Don’t get me wrong, I love travelling alone. I get to enjoy every detail of it – the scents, the sounds,the sights, the tastes. I get to stay a while longer in places that I really love, and just pass by the areas that I’m not so keen on seeing.  I get to focus on taking lots of pictures of a single sight, without minding if someone is getting bored, waiting for me to take the perfect shot. But the thing is, when you have a perfectly serene and beautiful scene in front of you, you can’t help but feel sad and nostalgic. It makes you think of the people back home that you miss, and makes you wish you can share this perfect sight with them.

It would have been a remarkable moment.

The Shinjuku-gyoen National  Garden had that effect (on me). Though one of the most famous and largest parks in Tokyo, it is a very serene area, perfect for a quiet afternoon solitude or an intimate conversation with a loved one.  An unmistakeable contrast from its neighbour, the Yoyogi -koen.

Shinjuku-gyoen is one of the largest green area in Tokyo, perfect for just lounging around

with Tokyo skyscrapers in the background

The garden was constructed on the site of a private mansion previously owned by Lord Naito in the Edo period. It was once meant only for royalty until it was destroyed by WWII, rebuilt and re-opened, this time, to the public in 1949.

one of the several ponds in the area

a visitor wearing a traditional kimono

Like most of the gardens in Japan, Shinjuku-gyoen is manicured, featuring three different garden types: English landscape with wide lawns, a formal French garden, and traditional Japanese arrangement.

The weather was just perfect that day! I couldn't get enough of reflection shots.

view from the Taiwanese Pavilion

Shinjuku gyoen Goryo-tei (Taiwanese Pavilion),, which was donated in commemoration of the wedding of the Crown Prince during the Showa era

The Garden also features a Cypress hill, Maple and Azalea hills, and several traditional teahouses. Unfortunately, I visited the place during winter so some trees and plants were bare.

some remaining flora, still abloom even in winter

a closer look

rest area

The Cypress Hill was especially barren. But surprisingly, this area became my most favourite sight in Tokyo. The bare, towering trees that line the stretch of benches exuded a certain melancholy and stillness about them. I just stood there for a few minutes, and just gazed at the sight, thinking, “Wow.”  That’s when the sadness came in. I wished I was standing on that same spot with a loved one, seeing the same sight, and uttering the same words.

Cypress Hill

Cypress hill

Even without shade from the tree, these benches are perfect for lazing around on weekends

A photographer taking advantage of the last colors of the season

Such beauty is just meant to be shared.

(Entrance fee  is 200 yen for adults. The garden is open from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm. English maps are available at the entrance .Just make sure to ask the personnel. In case you forget (just like I did), Shinjuku-gyoen is the perfect place to get lost. You get to enjoy every detail of it. )